Suwarrow, Manta Ray and the watermaker
hour it starts cooling you down a little bit. Like yesterday when I snorkeled where the Manta ray is supposed to come in the morning and after about half an hour the completely black one, my favorite, showed up and came up swimming right to my face to check out what's going on. For those of you who don't know them, they are BIG. This one is quite "small" though with a wingspan of only about 3,5 meters. They are so humble, so elegant, so friendly. With all that's going on here I did not have time to visit them today - actually when I did I could not see the buoy of where to go, so I did not find the place in my Kajak. The sun was too low and the waves too high.
What brings us and the tangers closer than last time, way closer, is the fact that a) we're the only and last boat and b) the rangers are stuck and running out of supplies. They have to wait for someone to pick them up. They just found out yesterday that that won't happen until in three weeks. All their supplies were calculated for a pick up this week. When they get dropped mid may they are dropped with food and fuel to last for 4,5 months. If they are in need of something they have to rely on the sailors coming in here to give them something. We are boat number 53 for this year. All they wanted from us after we offered was tea. And now some more for the longer stay. That's no problem. But they also run out of fuel for the generator and that's a problem because we have little fuel and don't know when we next can get one. They say in Penrhyn, but for sure?? Anyways, since their boat - or better the outboard - also quit it's service we will swap their remaining ready mixed outb
oard fuel with pure fuel. So they have hopefully some power for the rest of their stay. They do have a solar panel and batteries but somehow that stuff is all broken. After my washing (which I transported back and forth with my Kajak, including the bucket) I came back with our voltmeter to check solar panel output, battery and their battery charger. Nothing worked. The batteries have 10V - so they are basically dead, the output of the solar panels is 10V - that's not sufficient either.
So, while we have no water they have no power. So we try to help each other. I brought them fresh bread yesterday which I had just made. They gave me coconut ;-)
I have to say the rangers are doing a wonderful job in keeping this place clean and beautiful. There is Harry, who has been beautifully managing this place for the past 6 years, and his new help, Katsu, a younger guy full of ideas, an artist, a strong guy, creative and learning and hard working (if he has to ;-)). I see him cleaning the beach from leaves every day. He has shown me his paintings / drawings, his amazing carving and the videos and music he made / composed. Wow, so inspiring, so unusual for an island person. He is the sample of a person where the "materials" coming from the west do good. With computer, tablet and phone he can video and compose music. He is also a dancer (traditional) and does choreographies for the yearly Cook island dance competition, having on 4 times in a row. I would love spending more time and sharing more creativity and learning about their culture and drawing (he showed me a technique in the sand). he loved his time out here in Suwarrow, w
orking on his ideas, making big plans. He is dreaming bid an I am sure he will make it come true. Right now he is also writing a screenplay based on a traditional story. I have hardly ever met someone so encouraged, fun, realxed and working at the same time, a natural talent in so many ways. Quite unbelievable to find that out here. He is a perfect match for Harry who is very disciplined, organized and does the fishing. They got along so well. It raises my spirit.